Around Gulou 鼓楼周围

A pocket of young creative talent, set amongst characterful hutong neighbourhoods
Noteworthy for: Nostalgic locals are infatuated by its old style towers and alleys but it's the hipster shops, cafes and rooftop bars that draw in the weekend crowds.

Word to the wise: Steer clear of the now painfully touristy Nanluoguxiang on weekends and evenings, and slip into Beiluoguxiang and Baochao hutong instead.
Once one of many clusters of hutong neighbourhoods around the city, the vibrant alleys surrounding the drum tower now make up pretty much the only remaining area of authentic, 'old Beijing' life. Confusingly enough, the main road stretching east of the drum tower - right down to and including Beijing's signature hutongs Nanluoguxiang and Beiluoguxiang - were, and to an extent still are, the epitome of the hip new Beijing.

You'll be forgiven for being tempted by the rooftop bars, cafes, restaurants and boutiques that are the meeting point for the fashionable Gulou crowd. But take time to explore - and possibly get lost in - the tick network of alleys that lead off the main roads. Here - in amidst the concept bars, newly opened restaurants and niche stores that spread as far as Baochao hutong - you'll catch a glimpse of community life as it was all over Beijing, before the push for modernisation began in the 90s.