An unforgettable scent—the last rose water maker of Srinagar

You wouldn't know of Abdul Aziz Kozgar, or the 400 year-old secret he is safeguarding. In Srinagar’s old town, Kozgar sits in an anachronistic shop, surrounded by antique glass jars, and the whiff of rose in the air. Kozgar is currently the last remaining rose water maker of Srinagar, as its scent fades away steadily with the ageing man.
In the future, this natural distillation of rosewater would be forgotten, its importance dwindle, its history obscured. Like most things, this too would become a folktale. While the koshur gulab, or the Kashmiri rose, would forget its fate, and lay wasted on the lonely streets of the valley.

Abdul Aziz Kozgar’s forefathers came into Kashmir from Turkey about 400 years ago. The art of distilling rosewater would remain in the family ever since. Kozgar himself learnt this from his father. Not just the rose water, Kozgar’s shop is also famous for a kind of syrup that helps to cool the stomach, and patrons believe that it is a great medicine for the kidneys.

Kozgar has an important role in the community here. His rose water is an absolute necessity on anniversaries of saints. It is sprayed in shrines on various occasions. Even though artificial rosewaters are quite commonly found in India, this art of natural rosewater distillation is a luxury that is rare. Hence, its importance is all the more great.

However, strangely, this high-art is quite inexpensive. A bottle of 200 ml of rose water only costs you INR 20.


The old shop holds many relics, pictures of Sufi saints, lists of syrups that were once popularly sold here. Today, it is hard to imagine that all of this rich heritage will someday cease to exist.

Perhaps, star-crossed lovers today don’t need the rich aroma of natural rose water, or that people in general are in no need of old remedies for their stomach. Maybe, it is for the best that the old die a dignified death, before getting adulterated by ambition.

Rest assured, the old streets of Srinagar will never forget the Kozgars of Kashmir.