La Catedral

An alternative, amazing tango experience
Noteworthy for: This is somewhere to dance, not watch. Try your feet at the Tuesday beginners classes, so you can hide your own mistakes amongst the masses.

Word to the wise: Classes are held in Spanish, and you will change partners as you dance unless you bring your own. Be prepared to make friends.
Located in an incredible 19th century warehouse, this avant garde tanguería is not for the traditionalists. The 12m high ramshackle space is crossed with wooden beams and packed with kitsch finds and quirky artwork, such as the giant illuminated heart sculpture hanging from the ceiling.

Don't expect the tourist-sanitised fodder of San Telmo dance halls; it's not about slick polished moves or conventions. It's bohemian and proud, yet just as passionate, with a young, interesting crowd here to listen to new-fangled tango mashed up with rock and electro while dancing in their usual grungy threads, drinking cheap beer and snacking on the vegetarian food.

The atmosphere of the absurd prevails, freeing up dancers and musicians alike to be more experimental. While lessons here are fine, it's more about the experience, and it's best to come on the weekend for a memorable night out. Live acts normally take to the stage around midnight.