Rogacki

Sprawling deli and cafe dedicated to good food
Noteworthy for: With 125 members of staff, Rogacki has separate counters for each food group: 150 kinds of cheese, over 200 varieties of cured and fresh meats, fish, beer, salad, and so on.

Popular plate: Remarkably it is the eel stew, which sells out fast. Order if you're brave enough.
Part-deli, part-eatery, the enormous and chaotic Rogacki is where the locals come to stock up on their meats, cheeses and fish, all freshly prepared in the three floors of prep rooms and kitchens that make up this 1920s marketplace.

At the entrance, groups of rotund, rosy-cheeked Germans stand in the window, happily tucking into sauerkraut and little pots of fish stew. In the summer, there are chairs outside but, if you want to blend in, you need to stand up with everyone else, as you watch the 'hausfraus' whiz around the counters shoving bratwursts into their shopping bags and haggling over the prices.