Marigny and Bywater

New Orleans' beautiful, bustling, bohemian quarters
Noteworthy for: Marigny is packed with hip underground bars and clubs, including the St. Roch Tavern, Mimi's, Hi Ho Lounge, Siberia, and Sweet Lorraine's jazz bar.

Quiet, pretty streets, beautifully restored shotgun houses, lively underground bars and music venues, and only a short stumble from the Bacchanalian excess and musical exuberance of Frenchmen Street. A few hours spent ambling around the Marigny stopping to talk to locals, for something to eat, or for a cold beer from one of the bars along St. Claude is time well spent.
The newly-coined St. Claude Arts District has a growing number of galleries, and shows are regularly performed at the Shadowbox and Allways Theatres. Come Mardi Gras, the satirical Krewe du Vieux parade and many of the Second Line parades start from around Royal and Franklin.

Being further downriver, developers haven't yet bought up the Bywater. It's tattier and less polished than the Marigny, but these are some of the most interesting bolt holes. Have a drink at ramshackle Vaughns (4229 Dauphine), dig into the excellent N'Awlins grub at Elizabeth's (601 Gallier), or check out curiosities like Dr Bob's Folk Art Gallery (3027 Chartres) and the quirky performance space, Spellcaster Lodge (3052 St. Claude Ave).